Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.